5 Mistakes That Can Make Dandruff Worse

Dandruff can be distressing: No one wants to leave a trail of little white flakes in their wake. But if you're shedding scalp snow onto your shoulders, you're far from alone.

This common scalp condition (which is also characterized by itchiness) affects approximately half of adults, says Lucy Chen, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist at Riverchase Dermatology in Miami.

So, what's the deal with dandruff and why do we develop it?

This pesky hair problem often happens when there's an overgrowth of yeast (called ‌Malassezia globosa‌) that feeds on oils in the scalp, Dr. Chen says. "Some people's bodies perceive this oil breakdown as an irritant," she explains.

When this occurs, the body will increase the speed at which the skin cells renew, forming flakes of dandruff.

Because yeast makes a meal of scalp oils, people with oily skin are most prone to dandruff, Dr. Chen adds. In other words, the more oil available, the more "food" for this fungus to flourish.

In addition to excessive yeast and oily skin, other causes of dandruff include dry skin, sensitivity to hair care products (contact dermatitis) and skin conditions, such as psoriasis and eczema, according to the Mayo Clinic.

To add fuel to the flaky fire, sometimes our own habits can unintentionally inflame dandruff. Here Dr. Chen dishes on five common mistakes that make dandruff worse, plus what you should do instead to fight the flakes.

Because dry skin can foster flakes, many people believe that washing their hair less often is the answer to their dandruff dilemma. But this is a major mistake.

"Not washing your hair enough can build up oil, causing more flakes," Dr. Chen says.

In addition to natural oils, hair products can also accumulate on an unclean scalp. All this scalp debris can be a feasting ground for those funky yeast that drive dandruff.

While hot water may feel heavenly on your head, it could be sabotaging your scalp.

"Washing your hair with hot water can strip your hair's natural moisture [read: dry it out] and also weaken your roots," Dr. Chen says.

And, as we know, dandruff may develop when you have dry, irritated skin.

We get it: You want to ditch the dandruff as fast as you can. But putting too much elbow grease into your lather and rinse isn't the solution.

Rubbing your scalp too hard or physically trying to remove flakes can be painful and cause bleeding, which can make your scalp susceptible to infections, Dr. Chen says.

When your head is wet and you're in a hurry, you might blast your strands on high heat to speed up the drying process. But this intense heat setting could be scorching your scalp.

"Blow drying your hair on high heat can cause your scalp's natural moisture to evaporate quicker," Dr. Chen says. "You could also potentially damage the scalp's outer layer, which acts as a defense to lock in essential moisture," she adds.

On the other hand, leaving hair wet for too long can also promote dandruff due to the wet, warm environment that is created on the scalp. So timely drying — whether air-drying or with lower-heat blow-drying — is recommended.

Harsh ingredients can inflame and irritate your scalp and flakes even further.

Indeed, "Products with synthetic ingredients like sulfates, parabens, synthetic fragrances and coal tar can inadvertently do more harm than good," Dr. Chen says. Here's how:

• ‌Sulfates‌ (chemicals used as cleansing agents)‌:‌ Sulfates can worsen dandruff by stripping your scalp's natural oils, increasing dryness and flaking of dead skin cells, Dr. Chen says. They're particularly damaging for curly and thin, delicate hair types.
• ‌Synthetic fragrances and parabens‌ (chemicals used as preservatives in cosmetic products): Both are known to cause skin irritation, Dr. Chen says.
• ‌Coal tar‌ (a chemical often used to treat dandruff): It can trigger allergic reactions, sun sensitivity and even skin discoloration, Dr. Chen says.